The next day I headed to the airport, managing to almost make it through security without having to rescan and unpack my bag, but alas my tweezers flagged me this time! Despite the unpacking and repacking, I still had plenty of time to spare before my flight and grabbed a coffee from the only food kiosk and soon I was on board my Air Indigo flight to Jaipur, a quick 1 hour from Rishikesh.
Jaipur is known as the ‘pink city’ with its plethora of forts, temples and palaces to visit; however after being somewhat underwhelmed with Rishikesh, I discarded all previous expectations and aimed for nothing more from this new city than perhaps some animal protein and a slightly warmer climate.
As my arrival was during daylight hours and my homestay had informed me ahead of my visit that Uber was the best way to reach them from the airport, I chose to take an Uber rather than pre-arrange for a taxi or car. Uber was very easy to locate outside of the terminal and my car picked me up in less than 5 minutes. Right off the bat, just from the Uber ride to my homestay I liked Jaipur as not only was it much warmer than Rishikesh, but quite scenic with cool sites along the roadway, like picturesque Patrika Gate.
In less than 30 minutes I reached the All Seasons Homestay, which turned out to be another gem of a homestay choice with gorgeous gardens, 4 floors of spacious rooms and the bonus of a rooftop gym – all for $35/night! After checking in and inquiring about offered tours for the next day, I decided to do a quick self tour to the City Palace area of town as Google Maps indicated it would take me only 15 minutes to get there using the metro, a 10 minute walk from my homestay.
Unfortunately, I quickly discovered that Jaipur’s metro would not match my Delhi experience. Not only were they not connected by the same pass system, but Jaipur’s metro route was limited to only a few unfrequented lines and the station itself was a bit sketchy looking and empty. However, I had already committed to the trip and I bought my $.25 token at the kiosk and boarded the train headed towards the City Palace.
The City Palace area is actually a sort of compound, with a large bazaar and multiple sites to see, including the Hawa Mahal and Jantar Mantar. In less than 10 minutes I arrived at the station as I exited I was immediately overwhelmed with the insanely packed streets and sidewalks with the New Years holiday crowds out in full force. Side note: a car would’ve taken me at least 45 minutes to reach the center with the amount of traffic, so I was glad for the metro, as sketchy as it was. I pushed my way through the crowds for a few hours, taking a few photos and making notes of things I wanted to see the next day. As it was nearing dark by the time I finished my walk, I headed back to my homestay to explore nearby (non vegetarian!) dinner options.
My homestay was located in a nice neighborhood and actually had a few appealing Western oriented options and I decided on Native, a highly rated restaurant/cocktail bar. Luckily, as I was solo and it was before 7pm I was able to walk right in without reservations and ordered a grilled chicken salad and a proper cocktail. After about an hour, the bar was completely filled with patrons and I was about to leave when one of the only other Caucasians in the place approached me. He introduced himself, his two friends and their wives and it turned out they were actually the owners. We chatted for a bit and then they invited me to accompany them (yes with their wives) to the famous and exclusive Bar Palladio, a very ‘Insta-worthy’ hotel and bar for the remainder of the evening where we enjoyed a few hours of chatting under the twinkling lights of old colonial Jaipur.
The next morning after a delightful and animated breakfast with my homestay hosts where we solved world hunger, politics and retirement, I headed off in my tuk tuk for the day’s tour, which would include a visit to Amber Fort, the Jal Mahal (water palace), the Jantar Mantar (a collection of 19 astronomical instruments) and a tomb for $10.
The ride to the first stop, Amber Fort, took about 45 minutes to reach with the insane amount of holiday traffic, but once we finally reached the Fort, I could see what the fuss was all about – it was simply stunning and huge! Before entering the Fort, I visited the famous stepwell, Panna Meena Ka Kund, located adjacent to it. The stepwell is a stunning combination of staircases leading to a well designed so that people could reach water as the pool rose and fell with rainfall levels. Nowadays it is definitely an “Insta worthy” photo shoot op, but still really beautiful to see in person.
After the stepwell it was on to explore the main area of the Fort. Amber Fort was built in 1592, constructed of red sandstone and marble overlooking a lake. The outer wall of the Fort looks like a mini Great Wall and one could spend hours exploring its four different levels and multiple courtyards, but in true India form, the masses of crowds sway your experience. I walked the grounds for about an hour (NOT riding the elephants) and then headed back out in the nightmarish traffic for a quick photo stop at the water palace (only a photo stop as you could not go inside or ride a boat near the palace itself) and on to Jantar Mantar.
Before visiting Jantar Mantar, my guide suggested a quick stop at a royal tomb he guaranteed would be a nice crowd free break between stops. The tomb, called Gaitor Ki Chhatriyan, is one of many often overlooked attractions in Jaipur. It was indeed almost empty when we arrived and only cost $3 to enter the peaceful and beautiful grounds. After a couple of quick pictures it was on to the last stop – the astronomical collection of Jantar Mantar. I have a moderate interest in astronomy and was quite excited about seeing the cool structures I read about and fully ready to brave the crowds again. The entrance was packed with a line that wrapped around the courtyard and my excitement level began to drop as it seemed I would possibly be waiting hours to get in; however, after about 10 minutes of waiting, a guard approached me, asking if I was a foreigner and then pointed me to a marked ‘foreigner’ que with only 3 people in line to purchase my pricier foreigner ticket (I guess paying foreigner prices for entry does give you some privileges).
“Jantar Mantar” means “instruments for measuring the harmony of the heavens” and the observation site/collection consists of 13 architectural astronomy instruments which revised the calendar and astronomical tables when it was built in the 1700s. There are structures for both time and horoscopes and it felt like I was walking around in a giant sundial once inside the site.
After Jantar Mantar I headed back to my homestay to pack and prep for my flight the next day to Agra and the Taj Mahal. Again, I chose to fly as a private car would have cost me $60+ and 4 hours+ driving and I could never seem to catch a train with an optimal schedule, so $35 for a 1-hour flight was definitely worth it for me.
The next day I took an Uber to the airport and once again, almost made it through security without a hitch, this time it was my headlamp that got me, ha! My flight was delayed by 20 minutes but Jaipur’s airport had a few interesting snack and shopping options to pass the time, so the wait was not too bad. Landing in Agra was definitely quite the experience, as interestingly enough, for such a tourist hub, Agra’s airport consists of one small building that is actually shared with a military base. The only flight in and out was served by the plane that I took and upon landing and deplaning, the one ground crew member present at the airport started yelling at everyone to hurry up and get off the tarmac so the next flight could board. Then they ushered us all onto a bus, which was slightly confusing because it was unclear where the bus actually went and if it was mandatory to ride it. After a quick route through the military base we reached the main exit and a conductor came around to collect $2 from everyone (which was not mentioned upon getting on the bus), but luckily I had cash on me to pay the fee and I was able to exit the bus and set off to negotiate with a tuk tuk driver for the fare to my hostel.
After being pleasantly surprised with the city of Jaipur, I had been warned that Agra would be vastly different and it held true to this reputation. Not only was it chilly and foggy when I arrived, but it was nothing special to look at with tourist crowds and aggressive salesmen everywhere. My hostel, the Hosteller Agra, was located next to the entrance of the Taj, which I hoped would provide easy early morning access and an evening view, but the fog prevented that and I only got to see a faint outline of it if I squinted really hard. After checking in, I tried to scout the surrounding area for dinner options but it was so full of crowds and aggressive and unfriendly salesmen that I quickly turned back and decided to just grab a snack at my hostel and stay put for the evening. Unfortunately, my hostel room was also a huge let down (and by far the worst stay of my entire 3 months), with shoddy bathroom facilities, paper thin and questionably clean towels and all night long the sound of flapping sandals up and down the stairs and employees yelling resonated through the hallways, disturbing my sleep. Needless to say I was more than ready to leave the next morning.
I spent the night in Agra in hopes of catching the Taj Mahal at sunrise (when the crowds were said to be limited), then on to the Baby Taj and finally transferring by car back to Delhi the same day (there are only ground transportation options from Agra to Delhi). I debated visiting the Taj without a tour guide as I could easily walk to it from my hostel, but decided against it at the strong recommendation of friends and acquaintances I met in India. I found a tour guide online that offered me a decent price for what I wanted to do and the night prior I communicated with him on my pickup time. He informed me that an early morning visit would not be possible due to the extreme fog that had taken over the northern states of India the past week and I would do best with starting my tour at 8am with the Baby Taj. I was skeptical of his recommendation; however, his forecast turned out true as the next day the dense fog was still blanketing the city.
At 8am, my tour guide picked me up and we set off to the Baby Taj, which was almost empty and even though it was still foggy, it was amazing to walk around the beautiful grounds and inside the tombs. I was actually very thankful for my tour guide at this point as he took some REALLY awesome photos of me.
After the Baby Taj it was on to the main event – the Taj Mahal! Unfortunately, the fog was still hanging around and I had to walk right up to the Taj to really even see it, but that at least meant the crowds were lighter than usual. After walking the impressive grounds for about an hour, it appeared that the fog was not moving anywhere, so my guide took some Insta-worthy photos and videos of me and off we went to Delhi.
The ride to Delhi was relatively smooth, taking just over 4 hours to reach the lovely Tatvamasi Homestay, the same homestay I had stayed in upon arrival in India. After a few hugs and some chai with my awesome host, I headed out to grab some dinner nearby at one of Asia’s best bars – Sidecar and do a little dancing to practice my Bollywood moves at the hip Hauz Khas district (yes, there were quite a few selfies with the locals, who marveled at my dance moves!).
The next day I spent relaxing and finalizing the remainder of my trip in India, which I decided would consist of a visit to Cochin / Kerela in the south for some beaches and backwaters over the New Year.
The flight from Delhi to Cochin was just over 3 hours and I opted for business class on Air India for the journey and even though the route was technically domestic, it left from the international terminal, which provided another experience of India’s tedious, confusing and somewhat archaic airport security. The security check consisted of a facial and passport scan line before entering the building, a bag scan line right inside the doors, then a full security line after check in, all jam packed with people. Luckily, there were designated lines for business class, which allowed me a much smoother and faster screening (and yes, finally, I did not get flagged!). The flight to Cochin was on time and and soon I could see the pretty palm lined coastline, ocean and winding backwaters from my window, a lovely change from endless traffic lines and packed cities. Cochin’s airport was a decent size and relatively modern but boy was it hot outside compared to the chilly weather of Delhi! I did a quick change into shorts and a t-shirt before exiting the airport and meeting my ride to the homestay.
My homestay host had arranged for my transportation and offered me options for A/C and non A/C. As I was ready for a little sweating and feeling cheap, I opted for the less expensive non A/C version, which was a hybrid tuk tuk / taxi. The ride to the homestay, located on Marari Beach, was supposed to take 1.5 hours to reach; however, there was construction along the route and it ended taking over 3 hours! Needless to say, after 10 days in traffic and pollution I was chomping at the bit for some fresh air and it wasn’t exactly the most relaxing way to arrive to the beach, but once we entered the sleepy little town, it felt well worth the effort.
Marari Beach is quite off the map and there are only a few small hotels and homestays dotting the coastline. My homestay was just off the beach, a 5 minute drive from the center of town and a 5 minute walk to the beach. After getting settled in my room, I quickly changed into my swim suit and headed out for a sunset walk on the beach, which was mostly empty with the exception of a few happy dogs, fishing boats and seaside restaurants. By nightfall I was pretty starved and ready to try the local seafood, so asked my host where I should eat. As it was New Years Eve the next day, he informed me the town was having a small festival and offered to drive me on his motorcycle to check it out. I couldn’t resist the appeal of zipping along India’s coast on the back of a motorcycle, so of course I obliged and set off to explore the festival. The festival itself wasn’t wildly interesting, featuring local bands and food stands, but I managed to find a nice little restaurant for dinner and enjoyed people watching while I ate my meal of spicy baked fish (that I shared pieces of with a stray beach dog).
The next day, after a great night of sleep, my homestay host greeted me with breakfast and coffee and then I headed off to the beach for a full day of relaxation and sunshine. I found a little stand that rented out beach chairs and umbrellas for a few dollars and spent the day playing in the waves and taking in the fresh salty air.
The stand that rented out the chairs was situated next to a small restaurant and as that night was New Year’s Eve I was determined to have a meal on the beach while taking in the last sunset of 2023, so I inquired about their hours and menu. The owner told me that they set up chairs and tables at sunset and serve dinner on the sand. Their menu featured a fried local catch of the day which was served with rice and salad; however, I was really craving some green vegetables and I also wanted my fish grilled. I asked the owner if my desired changes were possible and he then proceeded to bring out the chef, who said that he could easily accommodate my request and asked what time I wanted to eat. Perfect! The only thing left to cap out my fantastic day was to figure out where I could find liquor to cheer the New Year in, as the majority of the restaurants did not serve it and the only liquor around was a local coconut moonshine / wine that I certainly was not trying.
Google indicated that there was a local liquor store about 1.5 miles from my homestay, so I figured what the heck and hopped on my homestay host’s bicycle to see what I could find. The liquor ‘store’ was a somewhat nondescript building with a lot of bars on the windows and a bunch of signage I could not read posted. There were also two huge lines of people standing outside. I parked my bike and tried to read the limited English signage and saw one sign above the shorter of two lines that said, “Premium Self Service.” After my que experience in Jaipur, I figured that it would probably be just what I needed. Sure enough, after a few minutes of standing in line I entered a small liquor store that was packed with locals, all furiously grabbing their liquor of choice off the shelves and clamoring at the counter to pay. Yes, I was definitely the only woman and most certainly the only non Indian in store that day, but I found what I needed, hopped on my bicycle and headed back to my homestay to shower….when in India….ha!
Just before sunset I headed down to the beach to the restaurant, which had set up a few tables and chairs and strings of lights along the sand. The owner greeted me and asked me if I was ready for my food, which I was, and it turned out to be incredibly delicious, with a whole fileted grilled fish and fresh veggies. It was a fantastic way to end an epic 2023!
The next day when my homestay host greeted me with my breakfast he asked if I wanted to join him at the local gym for a New Year’s Day workout and then go for a boat ride along the backwaters as he had a friend that owned a boat that I could take a tour on. I figured why not, so after breakfast we hopped on his motorcycle and headed to the self entitled, “Hercules Gym.” The gym was completely empty and had a lot of dusty 1980’s equipment, but was perfectly useable and I sweated my way through a great workout which ended up costing me only $1!
After a quick change and shower we hopped on my host’s motorcycle again (I think he actually just liked driving me around, but I did not mind) and drove to the backwater take off point, about 30 minutes away. Most of the backwater boats are very large and some are actual houseboats as touring the backwaters is a very popular activity in the state of Kerela. The boat my host had reserved was not a houseboat, but a very large boat with multiple comfy seating areas, albeit decorated like in a cheesy romantic way (yes, I’m pretty sure my host had a crush on me). The tour was only $20 for two hours of touring the waters where the locals live and work. The backwaters themselves are not appealing to swim in as the locals wash, bathe and dump waste into the water, but they do not smell and it was still a peaceful and scenic tour.
That evening, feeling brave after my workout and love boat tour, I biked into town to get dinner at one of the only restaurants in town that also happened to double as a grocery store. The menu was huge and I could not identify most of the things on it, but saw an interesting barbeque looking chicken dish being served at the table next to me. I gestured towards it when the waiter came to take my order and although he spoke limited English he said, ‘little spicy,’ as spicy is right up my alley, I ordered a portion for myself; it turned out to be really delicious and actually quite spicy, but it was so good that I went back the next day for a repeat order!
The following day was my full last day in India and I spent it relaxing by the beach, taking advantage of my host’s ‘kayak’ (which was a strangely shaped inflated raft that had a stick with metal plates as a paddle) to cruise the waters next to the shoreline at sunset and I enjoyed a repeat meal of grilled fish at the beach restaurant that hosted me for New Years that evening (it was that good!) to cap it all off.
The next day I bid farewell to my host and hopped in the non A/C tuk tuk / taxi for the drive to the airport. The ride back was much smoother, taking only 1.5 hours and soon I was on the plane to…..(read on to find out)!
Final verdict – how did India rate on the ‘Outlaw scale’?
FOOD: Excellent – my second favorite next to Egypt – I discovered a few new dishes I had never heard of and I actually never experienced “Delhi belly” – not sure how I lucked out, but I did!
SAFETY: Moderately safe – I felt ok walking around by myself and certainly wasn’t threatened in any way, but I could definitely feel eyes me as a solo white skinned woman traveling, so it was important I didn’t become overly friendly or talkative with anyone I encountered.
LANGUAGE: English was widely spoke in Delhi and to some moderate levels in the other cities; however, using tuk tuks, ordering food at small stands and negotiating sometimes posed a translation problem, making Google Translate handy, especially for those tricky negotiations!
THINGS TO DO: Excellent – there are countless options of things to do and see in the country, it is just a matter of getting there and finding the least crowded time to go!
TRANSPORTATION: I used a wide variety of transport in India, although I never got to take a train. Options for getting around vary based on what city you are in, where you are going and how fast you want to get there.
MONEY: For most Indians, a cash / payment app is used but it is not for foreigners, so cash was mostly king and it was a pain to keep enough on hand as I never knew if cards would be accepted where I went.
VALUE: Excellent – the food is incredibly cheap and varied (outside of red meat options); one can easily eat on a few dollars a day. Hotels and homestays are very reasonable, averaging $20-30 per day and transportation options are plentiful, with a range of comfort levels.
OVERALL: I have a love / hate relationship with India, the moment things got a little too much, with too many people, too many horns honking, etc., that was when it surprised me and made me fall in love it with its moments of pure enchantment and joy. I would definitely go back, now that I know what to expect and what I do / not enjoy.
TRAVEL METHOD COUNT: 5 Ubers, 4 taxis, 4 metro rides, 6 tuk tuks, 4 flights, 1 ferry, 1 scooter, 1 rickshaw, 4 motorcycles, 1 ‘love boat’, 1 bicycle, 1 kayak, 2 tuk tuk hybrids
TRAVEL MILE COUNT: ~2,800
TRAVEL CASUALITIES: 0